Fennel & Grapefruit Salad, A Ribollita-ish Dish, and Luscious Lemon Linguine
bright recipes for dark days + produce to look for in mid-winter
You were warned that this is a monthly-ish newsletter... so hopefully it's no big surprise that it's been (yikes!) four months already since the last one.
If you can remember the last newsletter, or if you follow me on Instagram, you'll know that I went back to Canada in October — I hadn't been home in nearly three years due to the pandemic, so I thoroughly seized the opportunity to spend three months with my family and friends before the big move to France. Now that I'm back across the ocean, I can happily report that I really did make the most of that precious time! Hence, no newsletters for four months. I hope you understand.
This is all probably a bit confusing, so if you're new here, hi! I'm Simone. I'm from Canada, but until recently was living in Norway with my Norwegian partner who I met while we were both living in Australia. We've just moved to France. Temporarily. That's... probably even more confusing. Sorry.
Other than that, I like to cook and write and I also like to share a lot of what I cook and write on Instagram, on my website, and in this very newsletter (which I try to publish on the last day of every month). I wasn't trained to cook professionally, but I was trained in public health, and I'd be remiss if I didn't say that my background in public health nutrition heavily shapes my values and attitudes toward food.
Now, I know that moving to France is a dream for a lot of people, but I actually lived in France for many years during my childhood, went through the whole French school system from ages 3 to 17, and have been fluent in French all my life (having lived in France gives me the bizarre chameleonic capacity to unwittingly speak Canadian French when at home and "French" French when in France*), so I feel like the novelty and mystery of discovering and integrating a new culture, especially one so romanticised in popular media, is a bit lost on me. Apologies in advance if you were hoping to get a vicarious taste of an unrealistically idealised French experience through me.
*the difference is akin to American English vs British English, in case you were wondering
That being said, there is a reason why France gets so glamourised, and I do intend to make the very most of my time here! Following me won't exactly be like watching Emily in Paris, but I do look forward to sharing a little French magic with you however I can. I already have a favourite bakery, a few favourite market stalls, and a collection of favourite French butters. I sadly don't like cheese, wine, or having dinner after 7pm all that much, but I don't think I will ever tire of having the privilege to experience French culture first hand — and I can't wait to continue exploring and sharing what this country so generously has to offer.
In any case, this month's newsletter is all about eating well when the year is at its darkest and dreariest. This is a time where we often feel we need the most rest, but also the most comfort, warmth, and light. That's why I'm sharing three recipes that I hope can provide just that: first, a refreshing-in-every-sense-of-the-word fennel and grapefruit salad, then a cosy and restorative potato ribollita-ish dish, and, lastly, a zingy lemon linguine that is sure to put some sunshine onto your plate — no matter how bleak the weather is outside.
I'll also be sharing some recommendations for what to look forward to in the coming weeks, as well as some favourites from the website. Winter won't last forever, but it does take up around a quarter of our lives. So why not embrace it as best we can?
Sending you lots of warmth and cheer,
(is it too late to wish you a happy new year?
happy new year!)
👋simone
an invigorating fennel & grapefruit salad
⚡
This is a ridiculously straightforward recipe but I had to write it down simply because it's so good. Note that the fresher the ingredients, the better! When you're making something as simple as a four-ingredient salad, the quality of the ingredients really has the power to take the resulting dish from good to great.
•••
FENNEL & GRAPEFRUIT SALAD WITH FETA AND POMEGRANATE
serves 2 to 4 as a side or accompaniment
INGREDIENTS
• 1 pink grapefruit
• ½ a fennel bulb stalks removed and fronds set aside
• approx. 1-2 Tbsp feta you can use more or less — let your preferences and tastebuds guide you
• approx. 2 Tbsp pomegranate seeds enough for sprinkling over top
• extra virgin olive oil
• sea salt fine and flaky, if you've got both
note 1: if you have a bunch of mint leaves handy, I have a hunch they would feel right at home in this fresh winter salad;
note 2: if the grapefruit is too sour for you, feel free to add a bit of honey along with the grapefruit juice in step 2
METHOD
1. First, segment the grapefruit. To do this, slice a bit off the top and the bottom of the fruit, so as to just see a bit of flesh underneath. Use the top cut surface of your grapefruit as a guide for removing the pith and peel without removing too much flesh, and use the bottom as a stable cutting surface. Cut the peel and the pith off the grapefruit by gently slicing downwards, following the curve of the fruit (try not to remove too much flesh as you do so). Set the peel and pith offcuts aside, then slice the grapefruit into segments, releasing each wedge by slicing along its two opposite membranes, as close to them as you can, and stopping once you've reached the grapefruit's core. For a more detailed (and visual!) explanation, feel free to watch this video.
2. Place the grapefruit segments in a serving dish, then squeeze over the juice from the offcuts you set aside (you usually want to avoid cutting off too much flesh with the peel and pith, but in this case we do want a fair amount of juice so it's not a big concern).
3. Using a mandoline (carefully) or a sharp knife (patiently), thinly shave the half fennel bulb into see-through, or nearly see-through, slices. Place into the serving dish along with the grapefruit, season lightly with fine sea salt, and toss the ingredients around a bit so the flavours can mingle.
4. Crumble approx. one or two tablespoons of feta over the top of the salad, then sprinkle over a small handful of pomegranate seeds before drizzling over a little bit of extra virgin olive oil.
5. Pick some pieces off the fennel fronds you set aside earlier and use them as a garnish atop the salad. Season again with flaky sea salt, serve, and enjoy!
note: for the salad to be extra crisp, bright, and refreshing, I recommend storing all the fresh ingredients (grapefruit, fennel, and pomegranate) in the fridge before beginning its preparation
If you don't have a grapefruit on hand, don't panic — this salad works just as well with oranges or pomelos, or a combination of citrus fruits
it's mid-winter:
what's in season?
🥕🍋🥦
I wish there were emojis for fennel, cabbage and turnips... oh well, maybe next year. In no particular order, here are some things I'll happily be on the lookout for at the local market in the coming weeks.
alliums: garlic, leeks, onions, shallots, spring onions, etc.
brassicas (members of the cabbage and mustard family): broccoli, Brussels sprouts, winter cabbages, cauliflower, kale, kholrabi, pak choi, mustard greens, turnips, etc.
fruit: citrus (clementines, grapefruit, tangerines, oranges, lemons, pomelo, limes, kumquats, etc.), pomegranate, dates, apples, pears, persimmons, winter tomatoes, etc.
greens: chicory, endive, cress, escarole, frisée, iceberg, radicchio, romaine, mizuna, mâche, puntarelle, etc.
winter squash: acorn, butternut, Hubbard, kabocha, kuri, pumpkin, spaghetti, etc.
root vegetables: beets, carrots, celeriac / celery root, horseradish, parsnips, potatoes, salsify, rutabaga / swede, sunchokes / Jerusalem artichokes, sweet potatoes, turnips, etc.
other plants and fungi: artichokes, celery, chestnuts, fennel, mushrooms, walnuts, etc.
winter fish and seafood: cod, haddock, herring, mussels, oysters, pollock, red snapper, sole, trout, etc.
cured and preserved meats: bacon, ham, sausages, etc.
mature cheeses: comté, gruyère, cheddars, stilton, raclette, etc.
note: please consider buying organic and sustainably-sourced if you can find and afford it — it matters a lot for the well-being of the animals, the health of the environment, and the welfare of those working hard to raise, harvest, transport, distribute and sell your ingredients, as well as for the health of those enjoying your home-cooked meals
What is available will of course depend on where you are, but remember also that winter is prime season for consuming preserved foods! Jams, pickles, dried foods (including herbs and spices), fermented foods, as well as canned and frozen goods are all ideal for winter cooking. Think of grains, nuts, and pulses especially. Just remember: when it comes to fresh ingredients, seasonal nearly always tastes best.
Happy shopping!
a ribollita-ish dish
(except there's no bread and it's only boiled once)
🥔
I hope you'll trust me when I tell you that this dish is remarkably tasty, because it certainly isn't photogenic.
It's also not at all authentic.
If you're not familiar with ribollita, it's a Tuscan dish that literally means "reboiled", as it was traditionally made using leftovers (typically, vegetable soup) — hence, boiled again. A proper ribollita will have bread in it, that's kind of the point, but on the particular day I felt like making something ribollita-ish, I didn't have any bread. I also didn't have any Tuscan kale. I did, however, have some slightly wrinkly potatoes, canned tomatoes, and a strong desire to make a hearty bean and vegetable stew/soup (that I planned on reboiling later, using whatever was leftover).
Well, it was so good that there were no leftovers. I ended up making it again a few days later, with Tuscan kale this time, but intentionally omitting the bread — simply because we all liked it so much that way.
•••
A RIBOLLITA-ISH DISH (EXCEPT THERE'S NO BREAD AND IT'S ONLY BOILED ONCE)
serves ten in theory, but five in practice (everyone had hearty seconds — twice)
INGREDIENTS
• 1 large or 2 small red onion(s)
• 2 medium carrots
• 2 large stalks of celery
• 4-8 cloves of garlic (optional) depends on whether they're fat or tiny!
• 1 Tbsp double concentrated tomato paste or 2 Tbsp regular tomato paste
• 2 ∼400mL cans of whole peeled tomatoes and/or cherry or baby Roma tomatoes* I used a can of mini Roma and a can of regular whole unpeeled tomatoes
• 2 ∼400mL cans of beans you can use cannellini, borlotti, lima, or a combination of two
• 2 large or 3 medium floury potatoes like Russet or Maris Piper
• 2 bay leaves alternative option: use only 1 bay leaf and instead also add 1 sprig of thyme and 1 sprig of sage, twigs and all
• 1 sprig of rosemary
• water, or water + broth 1-1.5L total
• 1 tsp chili flakes (optional)
• 1 large or 2 medium stalks of Tuscan kale also called lacinato, dinosaur, and black kale (cavolo nero)
• 1 small handful of flat-leaf parsley leaves (optional)
• extra virgin olive oil
• sea salt
• freshly cracked black pepper
*note: a real ribollita wouldn't be this tomatoey, so feel free to halve the quantity here — if you're looking for a proper recipe, your best bet is to search for "ricetta ribollita toscana originale" then use Google Translate to help you sift through all those Italian search results
METHOD
1. First, peel and cut the onion(s) into a small-to-medium dice. Dice the carrots and celery to be as small as the onion, then peel and slice the cloves of garlic (if using). Bring a very large pot or Dutch oven to medium-low heat. Add in a good splash of olive oil, then add the diced vegetables. Season with a bit of salt to help the veg sweat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion and garlic are translucent and the carrot and celery have softened. Try not to let any of the vegetables brown.
2. Place a strainer over a bowl, and dump the contents of the two tomato cans into it. Give the strainer a shake, then transfer the tomatoes into the pot, along with the tablespoon or two of tomato paste. Turn the heat up to medium to help cook off the tomatoes a little. Reserve the strained tomato juices for later.
3. Grab another strainer or rinse the first one, then drain and rinse the two cans of beans. While the contents of the pot bubbles away, peel the potatoes and dice them into large cubes.
Transfer the beans to the pot, along with the cubed potatoes and the bay leaf/leaves and rosemary (as well as the thyme and sage, if using).
4. Next, add the strained tomato sauce to the pot and cover the ingredients with water (you could also use broth). Season well with salt and pepper. If you're using chili flakes, you can add them now.
Using a wooden spoon, lightly mash and break up some of the beans so that they help thicken the broth.
5. Bring the soup/stew to a boil, then reduce the heat so that you arrive at a medium simmer. Leave the pot to bubble away, partially covered, for 20-25 minutes, until the potatoes are tender and can be pierced easily with a knife.
6. Remove the whole herbs (bay, rosemary, and optionally thyme and sage) from the soup/stew. Strip the kale leaves from their stems and roughly chop them into biteable sizes (you can also finely chop up the stems). Add them to the pot and simmer five minutes more, this time without the lid.
7. Taste the soup/stew and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Add in the parsley leaves, whole or roughly torn, if using, before serving into shallow bowls or deep plates. Finish each serving with a drizzle of olive oil, and a final seasoning of salt and pepper.
Whether this dish ends up more as a stew or a soup is up to you — feel free to adjust the amount of liquid and the degree to which you mash the beans to suit your preference!
Optional: if you're in the mood for it, add a Parmesan rind into the soup before boiling, and/or grate some fresh Parmesan atop each portion just before serving
seasonal hits from the site
✨
a beetroot & citrus salad
This salad is incredibly versatile: serve it warm or chilled, with feta or red onion... the possibilities are as delicious as they are endless.
roasted squash chili ginger garlic soup
This roasted squash soup is ideal for those days when you need a quick homemade pick-me-up (and chicken noodle soup just won't do the trick).
a colourful cauliflower citrus salad
This is the sort of salad that momentarily lets you forget that it's dark, cold and wet outside. So close your eyes and taste the sunshine.
caramelized onion pie
Sometimes you want to make something that's comforting and fuss-free, with just a little extra hint of luxury. Enter the caramelized onion pie.
a luscious lemon linguine
☀️
Speaking of inauthentic Italian recipes... this one is actually decently close to what you might find in an Italian recipe, only I've taken a few liberties (though, as always, many variations exist).
ONE, I'm giving you the option of making the dish saucier than it should be, just for that extra hit of luxury. And TWO, I've toyed with the toppings a little by swapping out the traditional flat-leaf parsley with more lemon zest, Parmesan, and black pepper. Some recipes for pasta al limone don't include cheese at all, and some add cream, and people on both sides will argue that the other way is wrong.
Look, I don't know about you, but I don't cook to be right. I cook to be tasty.
Lucky for you, you're the one cooking this dish now, which means you can do whatever you want with this information. If you want to use a different pasta shape, add some cream, crumble in a few toasted walnuts, remove the parm, halve the sauce, throw some crab meat on top, or simply stick to the basics... you do you. It's your pasta to make and enjoy. So, please, make it your own! I hope you'll relish the process and find as much delight in the result as I did.
•••
A LUSCIOUS LEMON LINGUINE
serves two to three
INGREDIENTS
• 120-180g linguine less pasta for a saucier dish for two, more pasta for a more reasonably saucy dish for three
• 1 organic unwaxed lemon, zested and juiced take care not to zest any pith; you should get ~30ml juice
• 30g butter
• ~60g freshly grated Parmesan you could also use pecorino romano or grana padano
• 3-4 parsley stalks's worth of parsley leaves (optional) ideally flat-leaf, AKA Italian parsley
• extra virgin olive oil
• sea salt for the pasta water
• freshly cracked black pepper
note: I don't season the sauce with any salt here because the cheese is already salty enough, but if you decide to make this dish without salty cheese in it, then, by all means, season the sauce a little!
METHOD
1. Start by adding cold water to a pot (a good rule of thumb is 1/10/100: 1L of water for 10g of salt and 100g of pasta). Bring the water to a boil, then add the salt. Put your pasta in the pot, give it a swirl to discourage it from sticking to the bottom, and set a timer to cook until al dente according to the package instructions.
2. In a medium frying pan on medium heat, gently melt the 30g of butter. Add a tiny ladleful of starchy pasta water and swirl it in to help the foaming butter emulsify.
3. When the pasta is almost ready (about one or two minutes left on your timer), lightly sprinkle most of the Parmesan into the butter sauce, bit by bit, swirling as you go to prevent the formation of clumps. Loosen the sauce with a ladle or two of pasta water, then add in most of the lemon zest. Swirl around, then pour in the lemon juice and swirl again. Season with black pepper.
4. Using tongs, transfer the pasta directly into the pan, gently tossing and swirling it around until the sauce is creamy and emulsified, and the pasta is well coated. If necessary, add a bit more pasta water (note that the sauce will thicken as it cools on your plate).
5. Serve immediately and top with the leftover Parmesan cheese and lemon zest, as well as a bit more freshly cracked black pepper and a fine drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Sprinkle on parsley if using.
Psst... if you don't have any linguine on hand, other long, toothsome pasta shapes like spaghetti and bucatini will work just as well!
That's all from me this month! See you next time 💛
This was a Substack edit of an archived newsletter. To read the newsletter in its original format, click here.