Green Beans, Summer Capresi & A Gooseberry Fool with Tahini Crunch

winding down and settling in + the joys of template cooking

Aug 31, 2023

Allô! 👋

Ah, late summer. There's something about that first morning or evening in summer that calls for an extra layer, a thicker top, or a longer pant, that I find somewhat disconcerting and sweetly satisfying in equal measure.

On one hand, it is a sign of the beginning of the end — a brisk reminder that summers simply don't last forever, and that the time has come for this one to round off. Not exactly reassuring. Yet, at the same time, it is also an indication that after a nice long season of being near-endlessly productive, Mother Nature is getting ready to let up, settle in, and wind down. Rather reassuring, after all.

Speaking of things winding down, my time spent living in London has now officially come to an end. To be honest, it all went by in a bit of a blur, but I suppose that's to be expected in a city as frenetic and fast-paced as The Big Smoke.

At the moment I am settling back into provincial France, into routines, and into a less hectic rhythm. The calm and unhurried nature of life here certainly offers a welcome respite from midsummer's frenzy. Many shops and bakeries were still closed for their summer holidays when I arrived, and a great number of market stalls stood empty as well. Frustrating for some, but it has its charm. After a long busy summer, everyone deserves to rest.

Now, as much as the return of cooler weather is bittersweet, it is also source of great nostalgia. Perhaps because I am still young enough to have had most of my Septembers be synonymous with back-to-school and all the preparations that come with it, or perhaps more simply because so much tradition seems to come with the late summer season. It is the time for another type of frenzy altogether: one where abundant quantities of produce must processed for storage, in other way or another, before it is too late, and preserved, to be savoured and enjoyed in a new shape or form later on in the year.

Traditionally, this is also a great time for foraging short-lived seasonal delicacies, mushrooms and berries* especially, and I must admit to missing the bounty I know Norwegian nature has to offer this time of year. If you are in the position to safely and responsibly forage, please don't miss out! Some of us wish we could be right there with you.

That being said, this month's newsletter offers a glimpse into the very laidback cooking of someone who spent most of August in a very pared back kitchen — no measuring instruments, fancy equipment, or detailed instructions required. I hope you'll enjoy what you find, and leave feeling refreshed and inspired for a season of winding down and settling in.

Wishing you a happy return to work and school (and don't forget to make time for outdoor meals while summer's still here)!

All the best,

👋simone

*girolles and blackberries, among others, come to mind

the caprese(ish) dish:
a simple template for summer salads
🍅

When you see caprese salad on a menu, you know what to expect: tomatoes (usually red), mozzarella, and basil, all dressed at least in salt and olive oil, though often with balsamic vinegar too, and sometimes black pepper. It turns out that this is a really good template for many a variation of summer salad.

My take on the caprese(ish) dish is as follows: swap out the tomatoes for any other fleshy and/or juicy fruit(s), and swap out the vinegar accordingly (if using any at all) with an other source of sourness to balance out the sweet, the rich, and the salty.

You could also swap out the mozzarella for another soft, fresh cheese, and the basil for another tender herb, and end up with something quite delicious (as with this salad, for example) though, at that point, I'm not sure you should still continue to call it caprese(ish) (same goes for this dish and this dish! they're close, but not close enough). One can only stray so far.

Here are some caprese(ish) dishes I've been enjoying — and will continue to enjoy, as long as the harvests permit — this summer. Hopefully they'll leave you inspired to try out your own!

•••

nectarines and other stone fruit

A simple swap of nectarines for tomatoes. With or without vinegar, balsamic or otherwise, as per your preference. Works a treat.

zucchini and other summer squash

Surprise, zucchini is a fruit! This one might be cheating though, because I gently fried the thinly sliced courgettes in olive with garlic before assembling (I also snuck some baby arugula in along with the basil). No need for vinegar here, and it all comes together faster than you'd think.

figs

In this instance, I like to swap the optional vinegar for fresh lemon juice (lemon zest optional), but the more classic balsamic works very here well too. Throw in some blueberries as well, if you've got them — they'll complement the figs beautifully.

tomatoes, with other fruit

Tomatoes and cucumbers, tomatoes and peaches, tomatoes and grapes, tomatoes and cherries... the list goes on and on. Don't knock 'em 'til you try 'em!

cantaloupe and other muskmelons

As with figs, melon also pairs nicely with fresh lemon juice — but don't let that stop you from enjoying it plainly without any sour notes added.

tomatoes of all shapes and colours and sizes

Forget about the archetypal tomato — smooth, pale red, somewhat oval — boring. If at any point in time you come across locally-grown tomatoes, be they big or small, round or long, red or orange or yellow or green or deep purple or any combination of these shades, ridged or smooth... do yourself a favour and buy them. Then salt them well before assembling your caprese. Preferably in the order specified by Ina Garten. And remember, if you haven't grown your own tomatoes this summer, store-bought is fine.

a gooseberry "fool" with a sesame honey oat crunch
🥣

This recipe is perhaps a little foolish (pardon the pun), because it is premised upon intuition much more than it is on instruction.

Be that as it may, I think it's still one worth noting, as for the effort the result is spectacular, as well as oh-so-adaptable.

Instead of gooseberries, feel free to try plums, currants, blue honeysuckle, or any late summer berry — wild or farmed — that you can find and love. I promise it'll be a pleasure to eat.

•••

A GOOSEBERRY "FOOL" WITH TAHINI CRUNCH
serves 3-5, depending on serving sizes

INGREDIENTS

for the tahini topping*
• sesame seeds preferably untoasted
• flaked almonds preferably toasted
• porridge oats or rolled oats
• butter unsalted & melted
• honey
• light tahini
• optional: flour
• sea salt

*note: there are no measurements here as I truly eyeballed it, though if I were to hazard a guess, I'd say I used roughly 4 Tbsp each of the dry ingredients, 3 Tbsp each of melted butter and tahini, 1 Tbsp of honey, and 1/4 tsp of flaky sea salt (for these amounts, I'd add 2Tbsp or so of flour, if using) — precision is not at all key here, so don't fret, but hopefully this note and the photos help give you an idea!

for the "fool"
• ∼100g plain greek yoghurt nice and thick!
• ∼ 300g gooseberries and/or blackberries*
• ∼100ml double cream or heavy whipping cream
• ∼1-2 tsp vanilla extract or sugar, halve the amount for powdered vanilla

*gooseberries can be hard to find! blackberries make a good substitute for this dessert, but are also delicious here in their own right

METHOD

for the tahini topping

1. If you've made granola or a fruit crumble before, the method here is sort of the same. Add sesame seeds, flaked almonds and oats to a bowl, in whatever ratio pleases you. For a crunchier topping, add in a small amount of flour as well — for a crumblier topping, skip the flour. Then, pour in enough melted butter, tahini, and honey — stirring as you go — to get the mixture to come together (though not so much that it becomes wet and can't hold its shape). Season with a small pinch of salt and stir again to combine.

2. Pour out the granola-like blend onto a sheet pan, then press it down with a spoon or spatula into a compact layer approx. 1cm thick. Bake at 160°C/320°F for 20 minutes or so, or until the top looks crisp and has turned a warm golden hue. Remove from the oven, and let cool completely before gently breaking up into medium-sized shards and smaller crumbles.

for the "fool"

1. While the topping is baking, top and tail your gooseberries and give them a nice rinse. Then pop them into a pan along with a small splash of water and a dash of honey.

Heat gently, stirring occasionally, and let simmer until a few, but not all, of the fruit have collapsed (you may also squish a few to release their juices). Turn the heat off, leave to cool in the pan, then transfer to a jar or container to chill in the fridge.

Alternatively, you can use blackberries in place or in addition to the gooseberries, as a 50:50 mix. If doing so, you'll want to freeze some blackberries, then leave them to thaw out on the counter. Keep in the fridge, along with their juices, until ready to serve.

2. Whisk around 100ml cream until just barely whipped, then whisk through approx. 100g of Greek yogurt and a teaspoon or two of vanilla. You want the final mixture to be thick and smooth. Then, give it a taste and adjust ingredient proportions to your liking.

assembly

Swoosh a heaped tablespoon of the yogurt cream onto a small plate, then top with the berries, their juices, the tahini crunch, and a few extra toasted flaked almonds.

Alternatively, layer the different components into small dessert glasses — or, for a more classic fool, swirl the berries and their juices through the creamy yogurt before placing into glasses to serve.

recipes from the site
+ ideas from instagram
✨

spicy, herby corn fritters

Tired of eating corn raw or boiled on the cob? Try something new with these spicy, herby — and easy — corn fritters!

continue to recipe

confit(ish) tomatoes, butter beans

Possibly one of the best things to make with a glut of end-of-season tomatoes. Cook enough to feed an army, and store the leftovers in the fridge where they'll only get more flavoursome with time.

go to instagram post

a light & golden minestrone

With a subtle fennel saffron broth and a colourful medley of barely-cooked summer veg, this soup is a perfect companion for cooler summer days.

go to instagram post

a toasted almond plum cake

This toasted almond cake doesn't have to be made with plums. Seemingly any fruit lends itself well to this unreasonably tasty almond dessert.

continue to recipe

beans:
more than just a side
💛

Growing up, I was a very picky eater. Suspicious of anything and everything placed in front of me, it sometimes took hours for me to finish a plate.

I do, however, recall (potentially incorrectly, memory being what it is) loving green beans. I have an especially vivid memory of my grandmother sitting in front of the TV, nipping off the tough stalky tips using nothing but a small paring knife against her thumb, letting the cleaned beans drop into a stainless steel bowl that effortlessly balanced on her knees.

I don't remember eating green beans as anything other than a side for a meat and potato sort of dinner until much later in life, which was a real shame, because as a fussy kid I'd somehow learned to trust a bean.

All that to say, me and green beans go back a long way, and these days I always look forward to giving them the star treatment they deserve. Below are a few ways I like to eat 'em when they are the main feature of the show, or at the very least top billing in the play.

•••

with peaches and parmesan

I really like peaches with beans, and I'm certainly not the only one. After all, what grows together goes together! Click or tap here (or on the photo) for more details on this dish.

with almonds and feta

I think this one's my favourite way to eat beans. Blanch a handful per person in boiling water, then shock in cold water. Toss with a good basil pesto, then serve with a sweet ripe peach, hunks of crumbly feta, and toasted flaked almonds. It's divine, every time.

with burrata and flowering thyme

I wasn't kidding when I said I really liked peaches with beans. In this instance, I love the contrast of the firm doughnut peach with the creamy soft burrata. Flowering herbs are a nice touch at this thyme (time) of year too, if you happen to be growing some or know someone who is.

More than a steaming (yes, another pun — sorry not sorry)

At the end of the day, green beans do make a great side. If you're looking to giving them more than just a regular steam, they do seem to thrive from being blanched then grilled on high heat. Toss through some quality pesto if you like, then garnish with freshly microplaned parm and lemon zest. The combination is outrageously good.